The Moche Route and Marvels of Trujillo

Moche and Chimú
Temple of the Moon (Huaca de la Luna) / Temple of the Sun (Huaca del Sol)
Chan Chan
Archaeological Complex El Brujo
Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum
Cassinelli Collection Museum
Archaeological Museum
Chiclin Museum
Getting to Trujillo

The Coast - Birthplace and Existence of Ancient Civilizations: Chavín, Cupisnique, Paracas, Nasca, Moche, Chimú, and others have all thrived along the coastline. Stunning temples, palace complexes, and expressive creations in ceramics, textiles, and jewelry have endured from some of these civilizations. The Moche Route traces the footsteps of the Moche (Moche/Mochica) (1st - 8th century AD) and Chimú (Chimu) (10th - 15th century AD) pre-Inca civilizations.

The primary temples, palaces, and museums of these civilizations are clustered around the city of Trujillo, 600 km north of Lima. Key attractions include Huaca de la Luna (the Temple of the Moon),  (Temple of the Sun), El Brujo archaeological complex, and Chan Chan. Another significant Moche cultural site, the Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum, lies 35 km from Chiclayo. This relatively new route has been under excavation and study for just two decades.

Moche sculpture

The Peruvian government is actively investing in developing the Moche Route, funding excavations, building museums, and enhancing infrastructure. For those fascinated by indigenous cultures, this route holds an undeniable allure.

Moche and Chimú
Moche and Chimú predate the Inca Empire significantly; Moche existed from the 1st to 9th centuries AD, while Chimú thrived from the 10th to 15th centuries AD. Researchers believe Moche gradually declined due to the adverse effects of the El Niño climatic phenomenon. The Inca Empire ultimately brought an end to the Chimú civilization, conquering and incorporating it into their empire. These were highly advanced civilizations, constructing magnificent cities, and grand temples, and creating expressive ceramic works reflecting their surroundings.

Moche treasures, Moche decorations

 

What to Explore:

Temple of the Moon (Huaca de la Luna) / Temple of the Sun (Huaca del Sol):
The Moche culture is waiting to be explored, and the Temple of the Moon is an exceptional place to start! While the Temple of the Sun is currently under archaeological work and can't be visited, the Temple of the Moon and its accompanying museum are open to visitors.

The Temple of the Moon, located at the base of White Mountain (Cerro Blanco), is a breathtaking structure consisting of five temples built on top of each other. To uncover the walls of the previous temple, one must carefully dismantle the more recent layers, revealing intricate murals that have been meticulously restored by conservators.

Beside the temple, a museum showcases Moche ceramics and jewelry, examples of exquisite craftsmanship that will leave you in awe.

Don't miss out on this opportunity to immerse yourself in the fascinating Moche culture and witness the incredible Temple of the Moon.

 

The Moche Route and Marvels of Trujillo

Chan Chan
Chan Chan, a city from the Chimú civilization (10th - 15th century AD), is considered the largest ancient adobe city still in existence. The current territory covers 14 km², housing 10 palace complexes, remnants of the original 20 km² Chan Chan.

While ongoing archaeological work is prevalent in many parts of the city, the Nik An palace complex is open to visitors. Surrounded by a 1,500-meter-long and 10-meter-high wall, Nik An was a vast area where rulers, attendants, ritual spaces, altars, and food storage were located.

Although now sand-colored, Chan Chan and the Temple of the Moon were once adorned with colorful paintings, remnants of which are still visible in some areas.

A remarkable sight is stumbling upon a pond surrounded by reeds amid the vast desert and sand—a surprising and awe-inspiring spectacle! These ponds are believed to have been used for cultivating totora reeds and for ceremonies linked to lunar worship. Around 140 such ponds dot the Chan Chan area.

The ticket to the complex includes visits to the Chan Chan Museum, the Rainbow Temple, and the Temple of Emeralds, all situated nearby.

Moche mask


Archaeological Complex El Brujo
Located in the Chicama Valley, just an hour's drive from Trujillo, amidst vast expanses of sugarcane fields, El Brujo is a captivating archaeological site. The complex comprises three temples from different eras, with the oldest, Huaca Prieta (Prieta Temple), dating back to 2500 BCE, still awaiting full excavation. However, the journey is well worth it for Huaca Cao Viejo (Cao Viejo Temple) and its accompanying museum, both belonging to the Moche culture. Constructed around 200 CE and utilized until 650 CE, Huaca Cao Viejo remains untouched, with its walls and drawings preserved exactly as they were. Similar to the Temple of the Moon (Huaca de la Luna), Cao Viejo exhibits multiple "layers," as four temples were sequentially built atop each other.

The highlight is the burial site of Senora de Cao, a ruler of the region who lived around 350 CE. Her mummy is remarkably well-preserved and is showcased in the temple's museum. The astonishing state of the skin, adorned with visible tattoos that once embellished Senora's body, leaves a lasting impression.

Despite her youth—she passed away at the tender age of 20-25—Senora de Cao received a burial reflecting the utmost respect and admiration from her people. A female ruler is uncommon in Moche culture, and the mystery of how this petite woman (standing at only 145 cm tall) ascended to power remains unsolved.

The Moche Route and Marvels of Trujillo

The discovery of Senora de Cao's tomb occurred a mere five years ago, in 2006. The tomb, remarkably deep, possibly explains why grave robbers did not disturb it. The lady's body was wrapped in 26 layers of fabric, a meticulous process that took researchers six months to unfold the mummy.

Tourists are still scarce in these parts. If you decide to visit, you might have the privilege of exploring the temple and museum in blissful solitude, as if they were opened exclusively for you!


Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum
The tomb of the ruler of Sipán (Senor de Sipán) is located 35 km from the city of Chiclayo, a three-hour bus ride from Trujillo. The discovery of this archaeological marvel has a fascinating story: grave robbers, suspecting treasures hidden beneath a platform of raw bricks, were the first to speculate. When the police apprehended one of them with a magnificent golden mask adorned with stones, the Peruvian government orchestrated an archaeological expedition. Archaeologists unearthed the burial of a majestic Moche ruler, complete with utensils, ornaments, and symbols of power. This tomb far surpassed the significance of previous discoveries. Beneath the tomb of the Sipán ruler, an even older burial of another leader was uncovered. Genetic analysis revealed him to be one of the first governors in Moche history (around 50 CE) and a direct ancestor of Senor de Sipán.

The museum on-site narrates the story of Senor de Sipán and showcases the artifacts found in his tomb.

Mochica ceramics, Trujillo

Museums in Trujillo

Cassinelli Collection Museum

A private collection owned by Senor Cassinelli, an Italian by origin, whose parents came to Trujillo and decided to settle there. Senor Cassinelli, now 90 years old, has been assembling his collection since the age of 13. The museum's small hall displays over 1000 exhibits related to the Moche culture and older Cupisnique and Salinar cultures. The ceramic pieces capture various important aspects of the lives of ancient civilizations: personal, societal, and religious. An entire shelf is dedicated to erotic ceramics. While the Larco Museum in Lima has two entire halls of erotic works, the Cassinelli Museum's collection appears considerably more diverse and intriguing.

Archaeological Museum (Museo de Arqueologia)

This museum is a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts. Located in the historic Casa Risco, it offers a captivating insight into the region's rich archaeological heritage. Visitors can explore a variety of artifacts and exhibits that showcase the area's ancient history, including the El Brujo Complex. The museum provides a unique opportunity to witness archaeologists and conservators at work, making it an engaging and educational experience for those with an interest in archaeology.

Chiclin Museum (Museo de Chiclin)

This museum is a must-visit for those interested in the ancient civilizations of Peru. It houses a fascinating collection of archaeological and documentary discoveries from the Chicama Valley, providing insights into the rich history of the region. One of the highlights of the museum is the exhibition of the famous erotic works of the Moche civilization, offering a unique and intriguing perspective on the art and culture of the ancient Peruvian civilizations. Although the museum is temporarily closed, it is worth a visit once it reopens to explore the captivating artifacts and gain a deeper understanding of the pre-Columbian history of northern Peru.

Getting to Trujillo

To get to Trujillo from Lima, you have the option to travel by plane or bus.

By plane, the quickest way to travel is to take a direct flight from Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima to Trujillo Airport. Several airlines operate this route, and the flight takes about 1.5 hours. 

If you prefer to travel by bus, the most reputable and comfortable buses are provided by the bus company Cruz del Sur. The bus journey takes around 8 to 10 hours.

Whether you choose to fly or take the bus, both options offer the opportunity to enjoy the scenic beauty of the Peruvian landscape as you make your way from Lima to Trujillo.

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          Natalia Volchkova
Natalia Volchkova
Travel Consultant, Expert in Peru