The Paucartambo Festival of the Virgin of Carmen is a cultural treasure steeped in rich history and traditions embedded in the heart of Peru. Through its vibrant parade, infectious music, and unique dances, this annual celebration has successfully kept the cultural roots of the region alive while attracting visitors from around the world.
The festivities in Cusco never cease, and the Paucartambo Festival is a shining example of this. Thousands of Paucartambo locals and visitors from all around gather to pay homage to the beloved Virgin of Carmen. This celebration takes place between July 15 and 18, where the entire town fervently participates in one of the region's most significant religious and cultural expressions. Paucartambo is situated in the province of the same name, southeast of the Andes Mountains and 110 kilometers from the Imperial City of Cusco.
Paucartambo is considered the folkloric capital of the region due to its magnificent history and cultural blend. Its numerous dances, nationally recognized, accompany the procession of the Virgin of Carmen. Among them are Saqra, Chuncho, Tarpuy, Qhapaq Negro, Qhapaq Qolla, Panaderos, Auqachilenos, Coyachas, the Waka Waka, among others. It is believed that the origins of the Virgin of Carmen date back to the 17th century when highland residents arrived in the Paucartambo province with their llama herds for trade. During one of their journeys, migrants and locals observed the face of a virgin in a clay pot. Following this apparition, the inhabitants sculpted an image and built a temple to venerate her.
The sculpture of the Virgin is crucial for Paucartambo residents, as tradition holds that the colors of her cheeks signify different meanings. If they are pink, it's a good omen for the people; however, pale colors augur challenging times for the town. The Virgin of Carmen of Paucartambo was recognized as the "Patroness of Folk Dances" in 1972 and was honored by Pope John Paul II in 1985.
Every July 15th, thousands gather to celebrate the first day of the festival. The spectacle begins with fireworks illuminating the sky, traditional orchestras, and parades dancing to the rhythm of music that is indispensable for this grand religious festivity. Charismatic Saqras, Chunchus, and Maqtas entertain throughout the day, while at night, residents reenact scenes of purgatory and hell through acrobatics and mischief around bonfires. Close to midnight, the band serenades the Virgin, with various dance groups continuing the celebration until the next day.
The central day starts early with the Aurora mass at 5:00 a.m. Afterward, people either wake up early or recover from the previous day's festivities before seeking a warm breakfast to combat the morning cold. Use the energy from breakfast to explore, take photos, and visit attractions, as the highly anticipated central mass takes place at 10:00 a.m. Be amazed by the procession, featuring beautiful Qhapaq Qolla and Qhapaq Negro dances expressing pure love and faith to the Mamacha del Carmen. The day concludes with the liturgical act, the procession of the Virgin of Carmen of Paucartambo at 3:00 p.m. You can still witness the mischief of Saqras, Chunchus, Maqtas, and other characters, this time from the celestial balconies throughout the procession.
On this day, festivities begin early with a morning mass. However, it's the day when the troupes embark on a pilgrimage, dancing from the city to the cemetery to honor deceased dancers. In the afternoon, the Mamita del Carmen leads another procession to Puente Carlos III, where she blesses the four cardinal points and the Mapacho River, ensuring its turbulent waters don't bring disasters to nearby communities. Later, it's time for the much-anticipated event: the guerrilla between the "Qollas" and the "Antis," and the "Saqras" with the "Wakas Wakas." These battles, held in Paucartambo Square, are dance contests aiming to determine who possesses greater talent and devotion to the Virgin of Carmen.
On this third day of celebration, the Virgin of Carmen is taken to the temple's baptismal font, and children and teenagers are blessed by the priest. The celebration concludes at 4:00 p.m. with the Virgin's blessing to the entire Paucartambo town. Some visitors and devotees return to Cusco, as the festival traditionally ends here. However, others stay for the final day.
The last day of jubilation. From 11:00 a.m., the image is placed on its altar, marking the beginning of the sacred sculpture's change of clothing—a special ceremony for the locals. The "carguyoq" or stewards carefully and delicately change the Mamacha's clothes. Finally, the troupes bid farewell with beautiful dances and songs, expressing gratitude to the Virgin for welcoming them into her home and bestowing her blessing.
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